Happy Birthday, Mr. Holmes

About a year ago, I was lucky enough to make the pilgrimage some Sherlock Holmes fans are lucky enough to make. With the aid of my friend in Amsterdam, we traveled to see Holmes' famous stomping grounds, in the city of London.

London, even in the beginning of January, was thrumming with life. One thing photographs cannot capture is how foggy the city can get, how dark and atmospheric it can feel. So it fit my favorite fictional character, Sherlock Holmes. The city lived up to every myth and legend. I could imagine thousands of different lives being lived out, all in one city.

Of course Sherlock Holmes was never a real person. Nor was the address 221 B Baker Street. (Until the Sherlock Holmes society resurrected a fictionalized museum-home for the great detective in the early nineties.) Despite Holmes never having been in London, his presence is felt more than ever. The Baker Street tube stop bears his image; there are signs, books, and statues in his honor. 

In the 221 B Baker Street museum, you can find an entryway with coats hanging on hooks; one for Watson, one for Holmes. In the main guest parlor, a brass oil lamp burns. On a desk are correspondences addressed to Holmes. A foot stool holds his violin, which rests atop a messy array of sheet music.

The museum was gorgeous, if not a touch eerie. It felt like you walked into someone's home when they were gone. It felt almost personal to poke around at the objects, or to put on Holmes' deerstalker. 

It felt like he'd be walking through the door any moment, bandit at his heels. 

Despite the surreal experience of knowing what I was seeing wasn't a real person's home, it did make me think about the character of Holmes, himself. In the line waiting to see the museum, I was surrounded by people from all over the world: China, France, all stretches of Europe. Holmes' character has reached far beyond London, and has taken on a worldly incarnations. 

I always wonder what draws people to the character of Sherlock Holmes. All I can say is I remember what drew me in. It was a few lines from the original stories.

Watson is hurt, and Holmes addresses him, asking, "You're not hurt, Watson? For God's sake, say that you are not hurt!"

Watson is shocked that Holmes is concerned about him, as it goes against his usual, cold manner. 

In a revelation to his character, he discovers that Holmes was more human, more suspect to the emotions we all feel than he let on. Watson thinks, "It was worth a wound -- it was worth many wounds -- to know the depth of loyalty and love which lay behind that cold mask."

In going to London, I got a glimpse behind that mask. Special thanks to my friend for taking the journey with me, knowing tube stops like the back of her hand, and making it possible to see Holmes' world. And of course: Happy Birthday, Mr. Holmes.

You don't look a day over 162. 

MD

Photography by me, MD. All museum photographs were taken with permission from 221 B Sherlock Holmes museum. 

Literary Tour of Amsterdam and London

Theresa said it would be a good idea to post something about my recent trip to Amsterdam and London. I guess being a fan of Theresa has to outweigh my disdain for travelogues, so here we go. Here is a literary tour of London and Amsterdam. Many thanks to my good friend for allowing me to stay with her in the Netherlands!


First Spot:
Rijksmuseum Library

One of the first places I went to in Amsterdam was this library. As the title of it suggests, it is situated within the Rijksmuseum, which is a museum dedicated to the art and history of Amsterdam. The Rijksmuseum Library mainly houses art research books, which museum visitors can look at if they register at the library. If you are curious about this library and are going to be in Amsterdam any time soon, I highly recommend you check out the Rijksmuseum Library Site.

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Another great library in Amsterdam is spot #2, the ultra-modern and sleek Amsterdam Public Library. The pictures below are from their youth service section of the library. 

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If you are curious about some popular Dutch children's fiction (translated into English) some popular choices are:

1. Jip and Janneke, Fief Wastendorp

(Pronounced (roughly) "Yip and Yanaka." These children's books are a lot like the American series, Dick and Jane. They are early chapter books for kids. Look for the English translations!)

2. Miffy, by Dick Bruna
This character is quite literally everywhere in Europe. Kids really seem to not get enough of these books. Check out the translated titles on Amazon.

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Our next stop on the literary tour is 221B Baker Street in London, the home of Sherlock Holmes. The address 221B Baker Street is an actual address in London, and it is now the site of a Sherlock Holmes Museum. 

Because I went at a time it was crowded, I did not get a guided tour, but you usually can go through the house accompanied by a character--from the original Sherlock Holmes series--in full Victorian costume. The museum is a shrine of sorts for fans, and I recommend going if you are a fan of the original Sherlock Holmes series, or any of its pastiches.

And now, Here is an obligatory black and white photo of the inside of Sherlock Holmes and John Watson's flat. It's created to painstakingly wonderful accuracy from the series. Definitely worth seeing.

And if you are a fan of the BBC Sherlock Series, you are in luck. Speedy's (a small sandwich bar and cafe) featured on the series is a quick walk from the Sherlock Holmes Museum. The food is pretty good, the people there are truly great, and it's probably the most food you are going to get for a decent price in that London area. The owners are wonderful, and appreciate fans who stop by.

All in all, I hope you enjoyed the small literary tour of London and Amsterdam. There's a lot more to say about these places, the people I met and my personal experience, but that is something I hope you will be able to experience for yourself one day. 

Best, and again, undying thanks to my friend for allowing me to have this truly indescribable experience. Thank you, thank you, thank you! x ∞

MD

All photos by MD.